From World of Cruising magazine, Winter 2010/11

Ever since my first river cruise on the Rhine and Moselle in the 1980s, I have been addicted to this genre of cruise vacations.  For me, the appeal of these cruises is based on three factors:

1- the ability to pull into a destination, not accessible to an ocean-going vessel, and step off into the heart of historic cities and villages.

2- the intimacy and camaraderie of a small-ship experience where the same passengers tour together and spend evenings in an environment conducive to making friends and acquaintances.

3- enjoying escorted tours free of charge that visit the major points of interest with a narrative from a knowledgeable guide.

I had cruised on most of the major riverboat lines but had heard from many of my cruise-buff friends that the best all-around experience they remember was on a Tauck European River Cruise. Not wishing to miss out, I booked a cruise last summer on Swiss Sapphire with an itinerary from Prague to Strasbourg.

Tauck European River Cruises are a division of Tauck Journeys, a large tour company who also operate two identical sister vessels, Swiss Jewel and Emerald, with a fourth coming on line in 2011. All these 118-passenger ships are owned by Scylla of Switzerland but are exclusively leased to Tauck for the river-cruise season and are subject to Tauck’s high standards and specifications.

Each ship has 14 300sq ft suites, seven accommodations designated junior suites, and 38 cabins ranging from 150-183sq ft, fully 85 per cent of which have floor-to-ceiling windows with French balconies.

The most expensive suites are on Diamond Deck, the top passenger deck, but most accommodations are on Ruby Deck, the middle deck. The nine least expensive cabins and one junior suite are on Emerald Deck, the lowest deck. There is an elevator connecting Ruby and Diamond Decks.

Unique to the cruise line, there is alternative bistro dining, featuring lighter fare, coffees, teas and snacks at the Lido Bar in addition to the open-seating dining in the main restaurant. Some meals also take place ashore at local restaurants and snack baskets are available between 2pm and midnight.

Included in the cruise price are wine at dinner; beer and soft drinks at all meals; pressing service; all gratuities; all shore excursions; airport transfers; and special events and meals ashore. The onboard currency is the euro and electrical voltage is 220v. Passengers with 110v appliances are advised to bring converters as well as adapters.

Passengers also have an option to participate in two-day pre and post-cruise visits at the cities of embarkation and debarkation. It was these additional land tours, along with the highly professional tours while aboard, that I found to be impressive and an added incentive to travel with Tauck.          

After landing in Prague, we were met by representatives of the company and assisted with our baggage to the Hilton Old Town, our hotel for the next two nights. Situated near the heart of the old district, the location was ideal for exploring the city. At 6pm we attended a welcome reception followed by a tour of the impressive art collection – including works by Velázquez and Canaletto – at Lobkowicz Palace, a part of the 1,000-year-old Prague Castle. 

After the tour, we enjoyed an exceptional dinner at the Palace served by tuxedo-clad waiters and accompanied by a string quartet. The majority of my fellow passengers were over 65, well-travelled and very friendly. Half had travelled with Tauck previously (some more than 10 times) and they assured me any excursion organized by Tauck would be outstanding. Certainly, this first evening’s events whet my appetite.

The next morning, a local guide led a tour of the impressive Castle and its surrounding gardens and monasteries, including the beautiful baroque libraries of Trahov Monastery. That afternoon, we enjoyed a walking tour through the Old Town to the main square with its famous astronomical clock.

The following morning we were bussed to medieval Regensburg, Germany, where another walking tour included such sights as the 16-arch Steinerne Brucke (the ‘Stone Bridge’, the oldest bridge in Germany), the ancient Roman Porta Praetoria and the Gothic Cathedral in the heart of the Old Town. After lunching at an old tavern on wurst, sauerkraut and beer, we boarded Swiss Sapphire.

Our smaller cabin on the lower deck had a window but no French balconies. However, it had fairly ample storage space, a plasma TV with numerous channels and in-house movies, a mini-bar, radio, hair-dryer, adjustable air-conditioning and a small bathroom with a glassed-in shower, terry robes and L’Occitane toiletries.

We took a peek at the other accommodations. Those on Ruby Deck were only slightly larger but the floor-to-ceiling windows made them appear brighter and more appealing. The top-deck suites had comfortable lounging areas, walk-in closets, writing desks and marble bathrooms with full-size tubs as well as showers, and were by far the most desirable.

Similar to ocean-going vessels, the suites are certainly the way to go if you are willing to spend twice as much. The pre and post-cruise hotel stays and tours cost an additional $1,000 per person, and airfare was also additional. The prices would be comparable to fares on luxury cruise ships.

After unpacking, we explored the ship. Down the hall from us was a small fitness center with treadmills, cycles and a massage facility. On Ruby Deck above was the attractive main dining room and kitchen and, on Diamond Deck, was the reception area, Panorama Lounge and bar, library and boutique.

Atop ship were lounge chairs with umbrellas, a Jacuzzi and the captain’s bridge. At the rear of Diamond Deck was the alternative dining bistro, plus internet stations and indoor/outdoor seating.

Prior to dinner, the captain hosted the traditional ‘Welcome aboard’ cocktail party, which was followed by our first dinner. We found the dining experiences among the best we had experienced on a river boat. The quality and variety, as well as the service, were outstanding. Breakfasts and lunches were buffet style with numerous selections. Most meals had cosmopolitan themes, i.e. French, Italian, Spanish, German. There were always vegetarian and heart-healthy choices.

Prior to dinner each evening, our knowledgeable and amiable cruise director gave a short talk to prepare us for the following day. After dinner, there was piano music and, on some evenings, group games, plus movie nights or entertainers from ashore. Afternoons aboard were spiced up with beer tastings, cooking and glass-blowing demonstrations, galley visits and organised card and board games.

Our tour of Nuremberg included sites associated with World War II, including the Documentation Center for a pictorial review of the rise and fall of the Third Reich. There was a walking tour of the walled medieval Old Town and Kaiserberg Castle, as well as a typical Bavarian lunch at a local restaurant along with entertainment.

Other excursions included similar combination of bus/walking tours of the major points of interest. What was special with Tauck tours – not available with many of the other river trips I have taken – were special events ashore enabling us to obtain a better feel for the country and its culture.

They included: a visit to a typical pub for a beer and sausage-tasting in Bamberg; dinner in a wine cellar at the Residenz Palace with a wine tasting and entertainment in Wurzburg; an inland tour to the romantic town of Heidelberg, with a visit to Heidelberger Schloss, Germany’s oldest Gothic-Renaissance Castle, and lunch at a typical local restaurant; and another tour to the acclaimed Black Forest spa town of Baden-Baden with its luxury hotels and shops. Our tour terminated at the famous Casino, where Tauck arranged for a special party with champagne and hors d’oeuvres.

Finally, we disembarked in the lovely French town of Strasbourg, for two nights at the Sofitel Hotel. Our tours here included a canal ride and bus tour along The Alsatian Wine Road, with stops for lunch in the quaint town of Obernai, as well as wine, cheese and foie gras tastings.

Throughout the land and cruise portions of the trip, three outstanding tour guides accompanied us and provided for all arrangements and personally saw to the needs of every guest.

Our final impression was that the friends who recommended Tauck were spot on. The quality of service and dining, excellent guided tours, information provided aboard ship, special experiences and meals ashore, and all-inclusive pricing, as well as the overall attention to passenger needs, definitely set this cruise experience above the competition.